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Thanks for this great video I bought a new carb and many other things thinking it was want it wasent. I wish I found this sooner. Thank you.

Really not bad for a DIY job. I enjoyed watching it. Now as an electrician I have to point out my observations. We are obligated to do so. The panel work is messy. #6 wire would have worked for the ground rods #4 wire is required to the water pipe if you have public water. #8 copper ground wire would have worked for the 100 amp subpanel, no giant lugs necessary. Torqueing the 200 amp lugs with a harbor freight allen wrench was probably not ideal, but seems like it worked out ok. You already seem to have been aware of some of these things. Overall really not bad man.

If anything I would not run heavy oil! Maybe lighter! Modern motors have tight tolerances and don’t respond to heavier weight oils!

Your neighbors must love you 😂🤣

I have a 2010 Toyota Camry with 250,000 miles on it and it doesn’t lose much oil between the 4,000 oil changes.

When I have used flush treatments in the past they have vaguely cured the problem but can cause other problems like crank seals weeping on the engine or valve stem seals. Sometimes the flush will take away the grease and grunge that is helping these seals to hold pressure. Good videos I have enjoyed them thanks.

Great video. I didn't know grounding clips existed so that's a cool thing I learned. Also, I don't think you needed to make a hole on the interior side of the wall to run the wiring. Since you had easy access in your basement and were able to fish inside the wall, you can grab it from the outside hole. Maybe a hook or pliers would be needed to grab it but definitely no extra hole required

You're running rich! Check your fuel trims!😀

MMO wasn't going to help this issue, I am guessing the rings are shot. So adding MMO would only make things worse as you're thinning the oil even more. My suggestion is to step up to a thicker weight oil all together. Like a 10w-40. That would help build a better seal in the pistons. Also try a can of engine restore, although I am betting by now you no longer have the car. I would imagine it ate a catalytic converter by now.

BG 44k! That stuffs even better!

I had the same issue when trying to open my bottle of 505 CRO: the cap simply didn't want to come off the bottle.

oil on top means valve seals....

If this issue keeps happening (had it happen twice in two weeks to me) I'd suggest checking cabin air filter and replacing the blower motor fan. It's three screws and actually easier than the resistor, although the part is more expensive. My fan was shot and the resistor kept blowing out.

What if the valve seals are leaking instead of the pistons?

Trash that oil burner

You are lucky you don't have a Ford vehicle.

Wow that steaming was an amazing trick!

It consumed less because of fresh oil. Oil burning came back after thousand miles or so, correct?

Thank you so much I followed your instructions and it was a success😂😂😂😃😃😃🤩😁😁😁😆

Nice job that

Wago > Wire nuts

In the first video there was oil pooled on top of the piston. The source of that oil is most likely the valve seals. You could be looking at worn valve guides and hard/worn seals.

<3

Add a half quart lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer

Perhaps liquiMoly products could help: engine flush, injector valve cleaner; and molibdenum and ceratec (both friction reducers that bond to metal and keep engine clean, added to new fresh oil)

Hey Dave, I don't remember anymore if it was you or someone else testing this B-12 who mentioned someone had commented to add a bit of oil to the the cylinder before driving because the rings are dry after applying this solvent, but I'm confused... isn't the oil pump mechanically activated? Meaning, when we rotate the crankcase manually, aren't we pumping oil where it needs to go? Or are the cylinder walls "splash lubricated"? Cheers!

Which code reader are you using? Thanks

New starter is next 😒😅😅

Just what I needed to watch for my project. Thanks for the video!

I cannot believe that an open spice is not legal, but this thing is.

It was a long video, but I watched every single minute of it. Very interesting. I like the fact that he didn't cut anything out. When he ran into a problem, he left it in the video and showed how he solved it.

Your hammer drill looks exactly like the one I have. And I too have the same problem, with the drill bits constantly coming loose.

What about a spiral staircase?

Use hot water. Pipe will slip on the fittings easily.

I think you get wrong size of oil seal valve the oil came from the top not from piston ring

Hi. You only need to replace those rings... e free oil return piston holes... and replace those rod bearings.... and do a cilinder honing... and voila!!! New toyota engine!! 😂

Don't need a whole trip.

Galvanized pipe looks like galvanized poop. 😮

My theory with the missing is that the Berrymans is evaporating out of the oil and entering the intake via the pcv valve and making the AF ratio rich. Also explains oil volume reducing. Just a guess… thanks for documenting this for us.

2 things you can see the clean ring around the pistons in the earlier videos. That’s a dead give away that the oil is getting around the rings and washing the carbon away Also in the video it’s looks real easy to turn the engine over. I’m not sure if the rings as stuck/plugged or worn but it’s time to pull the pistons

Excellent video! Uploads like this save people so much money, much appreciated.

Based on your first video, and this video, the top down worked better on the pistons that were down lower and unstuck the rings in cylinder 1 and 4 and didn't in 2 and 3 so redo top down on 2 and three with the pistons.lower

My 2004 Sequoia rear window doesn’t work. Reason? The tra ks are rusted out. So take a look at those while you are in there.

i love the stuff 10 times better than all others except crc which is $5 dollars more i swear by it for fuel cleaner

Any thoughts if neither fan kicks on? We have a 2004 with same issue. Fuses are good

thank you. this is great. There was 0 insulation between Rafters in my place and I installed a Sika 1/2 inch Insulation below Roof Decking between rafters, with a 2 inch air gap below it, to at least have something. Used strapping above insulation as spacer - and below it to hold it in place. Attic has No ridge vent, and won't have one ( historical home / not dealing with the association) so I stopped the insulation 8-12 Inches from the roof ridge to avoid creating a heat bomb at the ridge. Will install Gable vents on either side of the attic to help move the heat out. While installing, when my face is right in front of the insulation and air gap, I can feel the heat. It's amazing. Also installing insulation between joists above all ceilings. Attic is not a living space, and not for storage, but it does have flexible A/C vents run through it, and Air Handler for AC is located in attic too. Hoping this moderate Sika 1/2 inch R 3.2 install with Gable Vents will reduce the "oven effect" in the attic.

Hey there, question: During this entire journey, has the car blown gray smoke out the exhaust in large amounts at all?? I haven’t head you mention that yet. Thanks!

They didn't have the PCV valve for my Camry at the Toyota dealership either. It seems odd-common tune-up item. How many different PCV valves go in Toyotas, like about 4?

Compression test before and after please

I had the same car. Change your muffler i changed mine and boom horspower was restored it was like a new car. Thoose old mufflers break down and clog